What Jo March would wear to her wedding.

Those around me recently know that I've had a mild Little Women obsession. I finished the book again and I just think it's the best, barring Persuasion. I've also been trying to create something every day (again...a resolution I have mixed results keeping). So, I decided a paper project would be to design Jo's wedding dress.

She would have gotten married anywhere from 1868-71 by some calculations. The silhouette might be a little slender, but she wouldn't have gone all out. I had a time deciding how fussy and feminine she'd be. The dress is definitely not white. She's too practical for that, and would want to wear it again. I want it to be a nice light blue (like the color of this blog maybe...), yellow, or light brown like this dress. I imagine Amy would have put away something for Jo and that's where the lace collar and cuffs come from, that can be removed for less formal occasions.

After I was satisfied with Jo I drew Professor Bhaer and had a heck of a time with his face, until I just looked up a picture of Gabriel Bryne from the film. He's wearing Colleen Atwood's design for him. And he has a beard. Professor Bhaer has a beard.

And Jo looks a little like me. I worked SO hard not to make her as tall as me (ok, I didn't try that hard)...I'm trying to draw real people...but all my faces, unless I really try, end up looking like me at least a little. And if I try really hard they look A LOT like me :)

Anyway, here you go.

Shows I want to costume

Thoroughly Modern Millie
So many great group numbers and I love to costume dancing! Excellent menswear, evening wear, office wear and character transformation. I've already designed Mrs. Meers et al, but I'll take another go!

Arcadia
This is my all-time favorite play that I've read but never seen produced. I think designing Thomasina's transformation and the fine line between present and past would be difficult but thrilling. I just want to work on this show!

Lost in Yonkers
This show's about finesse. I've been involved in a production of Yonkers recently that I was thrown into, but I'd love to really delve into it and really work the details like crazy. Opportunities for crazy realism.

Little Women
I've decided this is one of my favorite books, perhaps only surpassed by Persuasion. I love the musical and think it's charming. Costumes include tomboyness, casual, formal, and Professor Bhaer! There's also a wedding dress.

Twelfth Night
Since Peter Pan I've had a pretty healthy fascination with women as men. I also love this play and what I could put Olivia and the Duke in. Chances for comedy and elegance and cross dressing! Period is of course up to the director, but I think I could have a really great time with this.

My Fair Lady or Pygmalion
I love MFL, but you'd get the same transformation and formal wear opportunities in Pygmalion. I'd love to do both really. Musical and play costumes for the same script? Divine.

Corset Workshop

This is what we do when we're not in the dark. S'not finished yet, will be soon.

Anna Karenina trailer

I don't like Anna Karenina. I don't like the person, I don't like the story bc I don't like the person. Women's lib blah blah blah, she's a trashy selfish person and the train can't come soon enough.

So...Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina, blerg. I don't like Keira Knightley. I think she plays the same character over and over: pretty but nothing special with some sort to inexplicable personality that draws all men to her. Perfect for Anna Karenina! She also doesn't wear any period well besides the 20s and 30s.

And so the trailer for the 2012 Anna Karenina which I've known about for awhile, but have repressed or something bc I was surprised to see a trailer so soon.



Ug. Ok, so Tom Stoppard, one of my favorite playwrights has done the screenplay. Great. Jude Law, wonderful. Other than that? Not excited. The menswear looks phenomenal, but the womenswear looks sloppy and droopy and all concept heavy. Again, it doesn't help that Keira Knightley, like I said, can't wear period to save her life. Alexi looks gross (aren't they both Alexi? they both look gross, but Jude Law's in an "amazingly done hair and make up" kind of way). Yes the cinematography looks beautiful in scenes. What's with the dancing? The furs are divine. Not excited, the train can't come soon enough!

Future book buys

I just spent a night of delicious soup and dessert, laundry and perusing friend Jack's costume book collection. He has two books that are next on my buy list...

First: The Art of Fabric Manipulation by Colette Wolff

I've wanted this one for awhile. It's got all sorts of great instructions and illustrations for smocking, pleating, quilting, ruffles, tucking, stuffing, cording etc. It's great and I want it!

Second: Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire B. Shaeffer

It's exactly what it sounds like and has lots of illustrations and photos of garments.

Stitchin' it!

This is what a stitcher does all day. This was the second crinoline petticoat I put a new organza cover on. Needless to say there's a lot of it. Mostly I just laugh and laugh. My friend Valerie sews to my left and sometimes I can feel the petticoat move and I know she's still alive.

Best Dance Dresses

FAVORITE dance dress:
"The Piccolino" from Top Hat on Ginger Rogers
Youtube it, neither of the videos are embeddable.

so sparkly and pretty!

"Dancing in the Dark" from Band Wagon on Cyd Charisse
not the most extravagant, but it dances like a dream.

like a dream

"It Only Happens When I Dance With You" from Easter Parade on Ann Miller
ombre and feathers!!!!

1912 it's not, beautiful it is!

"The Best Things Happen While You're Dancing" from White Christmas on Vera Ellen
SO MANY LAYERS OF CHIFFON!

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"Dancing Cheek to Cheek" from Top Hat on Ginger Rogers
ostrich feathers, that is all.

Fred hated this dress, and it was parodied in Easter Parade

There are more of course, but these are the ones I can think of off the top of my head. The Piccolino dress is my favorite dress!

Bramwell

I've been sick for the past couple of days so I've been watching the mid-nineties British drama Bramwell. Set in 1895 and starring Jemma Redgrave, Bramwell follows Eleanor Bramwell, woman doctor. She starts a hospital for the poor and trials ensue. I really like it. The costumes are phenomenal as are the hair and make up. Bramwell of course faces the challenges of being a woman doctor and a doctor in general. Every illness and situation is a new learning experience for Dr. Bramwell and she doesn't always make the correct decisions. It's on Netflix instant play and I'd highly recommend it.

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NOW, here's an issue I have with series or movies like this i.e. ones with strong, driven female leads (Bramwell, Lark Rise to Candleford, Cranford, Anne of Green Gables, My Brilliant Career). What's with these women going through men like water? The best and hunkiest of men always fawn all over these outspoken and beautiful women only to be rejected for usually one of two reasons: the woman doesn't love them (fine by me) or they could never imagine giving up their career which is oh so dear to them for a man. In more than one of these cases the guy promises they can have their career still, some even share the profession. I just get so mad! I think this emotion is heightened when one watches a series straight through so the men only last a couple hours at most. I do understand that yes a woman's life will change if she has a child, especially back then, but wouldn't that just be another challenge for such a supposedly gifted woman? I just get frustrated that these fictitious women are so careless with love. I get even madder when they're engaged and call it off. How cruel. Of course this is all pretend and I wouldn't keep watching if there wasn't hope for another fellow, but by golly it makes me so mad. Rant over.

My Fair Lady 2012

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 While trying to figure out titles for best costumes for the Academy Awards in February (entry to come) I happened upon Enchanted Serenity, which I occasionally trowel for costume drama news. Seems there's to be a new My Fair Lady! Adapted by Emma Thompson (a lady and a scholar). I'm assuming since it's called My Fair Lady and not Pygmalion they're keeping it a musical and am also assuming they'll keep the Lerner and Loewe score and lyrics. The latest news on the cast has Academy Award nominee Carey Mulligan (P&P '05, Bleak House, An Education) as Eliza and Hugh Grant as Thompson's pick for Higgins. That's right ladies and gentlemen, we've reached the time that Hugh Grant is old enough to play Henry Higgins!

I think Mulligan is a fine choice for Eliza. She's one of my absolute favorite new (if you've just discovered her as America has) talents and I'd love to see her play both sides of Eliza seeing as until now she's been rather prim and proper. I have no idea if she can sing, but here's hoping.

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Grant as Higgins? Granted (haha) he is only Thompson's pick and there is no evidence that he's actually interested in the project, but doesn't he seem a tad inarticulate to play famed linguist Henry Higgins? I mean that's the schtick right? Bumbling but adorable (?) Hugh Grant. I don't know about this one. Enchanted Serenity has a list with its article of other possible Higgins including Daniel Craig, Colin Firth (role reversal from The King's Speech?), Hugh Jackman, Hugh Laurie (personal fave), Jeremy Northam etc. Who'da thunk we'd see the day when our favorite heroes mature into the role of Henry Higgins? Yes they are the right age, but Rex Harrison just seemed so much older than any of them ('sides maybe Hugh Laurie).  I only know that Hughes Jackman and Laurie can sing so...not that Higgins actually sings per se. Rex Harrison invented talk singing for My Fair Lady, so maybe I shouldn't rate them on musical ability...

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 And my opinion on the project in general? I'm leaning toward "cool!". I've always longed to see the original cast with Julie Andrews i.e. an Eliza that did her own singing. I love Audrey Hepburn to bits, but in My Fair Lady she just doesn't do it for me as much as her other contemporary works. She's too waify for Eliza and for that period. I'd be excited to see a new face and form take the role. As for Rex Harrison, loved him and he IS Higgins to me, but again, I'd be excited to see a new take. Don't think I've forgotten the mess that was made of The Music Man w/ Matthew Broderick, but here's hoping under Emma Thompson's keen eye this project will be a nice reinvention, not replacement for or blotch on the original. I'd also be excited to see a new take on the costumes. With so many iconic pieces (the flower girl dress, the ascot and ball dresses) I'd love to see them turned on their head.


As a child My Fair Lady was my stay home sick movie and the ending always confused me and my mother couldn't explain it to me. Were they in love? weren't they? What on earth happens after she comes back? ****SPOILERS****I was actually pondering Pygmalion this morning oddly enough and how if you read Shaw's epilogue he's very adamant that Eliza and Higgins are not in love and do not get together and that supposing they are and do is dumb and is insulting to Eliza. She marries Freddy and has a relatively unremarkable life as she supports Freddy and becomes a fixture in Higgins and Pickering's lives. What will Thompson do with this? My high school had Higgins and Eliza kiss at the end which gave my childhood a lot of closure, but looking back I agree with Shaw (who wrote it, so you should too). While My Fair Lady is excellent at leaving the end very ambiguous I wouldn't mind Thompson making up our minds for us, siding w/ Shaw and myself of course. 

Mr. Darcy in review

I've got it into my head that I want to "review" the Mr. Darcies of our time from four main sources and by doing so perhaps start a series of Austen reviews. Of course one has to start with Darcy considering he is, I think with no contest, the most recognized and swooned over hero or character in Austen. This can be debated based on favorites, but as a whole Darcy is the man. We can debate the heroes later (I'm a Tilney gal myself, or Wentworth...or Knightley).

What are to be my Mr. Darcy sources? Pride and Prejudices 1995 (Colin firth), 2005 (Matthew Macfadyen), 2003 (yes, the Mormon one-Orlando Seale) and Lost in Austen 2008 (Elliot Cowan). I have not included the Greta Garbo/Lawrence Olivier P&P because I don't feel I've seen it recently enough to give a fair account. I have included Lost in Austen because it includes all the P&P characters, is I think, one of the best modern Austen interpretations and you can't just ignore Elliot Cowan's scrumptious Darcy.

And so, here we go, in a very particular order starting with none other than the reigning champion of Darciness, Academy Award Winner Colin Firth.

Firth is Darcy. I defy anyone to dispute this. Each Darcy has his special qualities that the others mightn't, but Firth is just Darcy all over. He's got the looks, the height, the hair and the glances and stares. Who doesn't get giddy when Elizabeth goes to turn Georgiana's pages and Darcy looks at her so perfectly? We all pine to be looked at like that.

yup, like this

And of course we can't forget The Lake. I recently watched this version over Thanksgiving and was with quite a throng of 15-30 year olds who  all lost it when the music swelled and Darcy busted through the woods.

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As for horse riding, Firth is pretty great and as far as I can tell does all his own horse work. Also, he fences. FENCES! When Elizabeth finds out about Lydia he's so concerned and takes her hand. Ug! He's just so Darcy. I don't really know what else to say! As costumes go he's one of my favorites, second only to a Darcy that's yet to be discussed. Favorite? His green coat with green patterned waistcoat, although I have seen his formal "tux" in person. Yup, jealous?

 

He only smiles once, and they only kiss once (the only part of Elizabeth and Darcy's stroll at the end I'd change), but both smile and kiss are worth it. Oh Mr. Firth.

Ok, so I have a rather hard time picking my second favorite Darcy, between Macfadyen and Cowan. I don't like Macfadyen's face as well as Cowan's, but I love Macfadyen's beefiness, which isn't to say I don't absolutely adore Cowan's cutness (saw him in Macbeth at the Globe, he is cut)...Which to pick next?! I'd say it's a tie but that will never do. Ok ok ok, don't kill me for picking a Darcy that isn't in the real narrative but...

Elliot Cowan comes in second. I know, I know, Lost in Austen isn't a true telling of P&P and therefore we miss some of Darcy's best Austen written lines, but Cowan explores a completely new take on Darcy and I think successfully so. Also, even though I abhor both of their hair compared to Firth and Seale, I despise Cowan's less. Cowan has his great glances at Amanda and has his own lake scene. Granted there isn't the emotional build up to it like Firth's but in this conversation we return to Cowan's cutness. So so cut, such a thick waist (truth be told Firth is a bit slim for me...). Cowan's voice I like much better than Macfadyen's. True story: the only thing that triggered any recollection of Cowan from Lost in Austen (which I saw about 18 months prior) when I saw Macbeth was his voice and absolutely square jaw.

not the best quality, but I had to take it myself from Netflix to show how absolutely defined and thick he is

Cowan is much more grumbly and scowly than any other Darcy, but he's oh so soft when he needs to be. I didn't like some of his coats, mostly his double breasted ones, mainly his burgundy which is cut too high and shows so much waistcoat. Cowan also has an amazing riding coat (not as great at Macfadyen's). And of course you get the end of the movie smile...sort of.

Now, Matthew Macfadyen. Truth be told I'm not wild about this version in general. The cinematography is stunning, as is the attention to detail in costuming, but the hair and make up was just too distracting, and I don't care for Keira Knightley. However, Macfadyen's own brand of Darcy does redeem it on some counts. Macfadyen plays Darcy as a shy and awkward guy that's rather reluctant to be in society. He'd rather stay home because it's not the less refined he particularly despises, but just having to talk to strangers in general (watch Macfadyen's interview on the DVD).

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His hair is terrible. It just hangs there during the proposal (Darcy should have curly hair!). Macfadyen's main draw for me is his incredible breadth and broadness. He's so large, and we all know I have a thing for beefy men (or you know now).

The above photo shows one of my favorite little moments in the film, next Darcy turns around and almost elbows Collins. Also from this scene we see how broad his shoulders are and how thick his waist is and, look at the cut of his coat! SO fantastic.

Which leads me to another point: I like Macfadyen's costumes the best, probably because I prefer the  late 18th century coats more than the double breasted of the later period that the others are set in. His colors are also fresher by the end and go through a very nice palette transformation. AND he's got the best riding coat that billows so greatly in Macfadyen's immense amount of horse riding (although I think they used a stunt double for some of the more rigorous riding, think during Darcy's letter). And lest we forget Darcy's mist scene, this version's answer to The Lake Scene.

thick waist, billowy riding coat

And of course Macfadyen smiles so nicely.

And lastly, Orlando Seale, who is modern Darcy. He's got the accent and the hair and the attitude and some very endearing parts, but he's a rather petite man and you just can't beat the costumes.

Maybe the best hair, which is a miracle considering the rest of the hair in this film is a disaster.

And he smiles.

Mr. Knightley in Review

W.E. Vanity Fair photos

Martha tipped me off to this Vanity Fair photo shoot of the stars of W.E., Madonna's upcoming directorial debut about Wallis Simpson and Edward VIII (release date 9 December 2011).http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/features/2011/09/we-cast-slideshow-201109
Read the attached info about the film and drool over the photos. I'm most impressed by the couch (ok and the replica of this dress), Wallis' KNIT zig-zag suit, her amazing finger waves, James D'Arcy's impeccable tailoring and D'Arcy as a blond. 

Also interesting about the film in general, James Fox is playing George V with son Laurence Fox as Bertie.